Swedish Lapland on foot
There are places where time seems to slow down, and Swedish Lapland is one of them. Everything feels bigger above the Arctic Circle: the distances, the silence, the wilderness. You can drive for hours without seeing much at all, except for a reindeer suddenly crossing the road or a mountain emerging through the clouds.
It’s only when you start hiking that you truly realise how different this landscape is. Each day takes you deeper into the wilderness. You spend the nights in simple mountain huts, carry everything you need on your back, and let nature set the pace of your days. This isn’t about reaching your destination as quickly as possible; it’s about embracing the journey itself.
The Kungsleden, which literally translates to The King’s Trail is perhaps Scandinavia’s most iconic long-distance hiking route. For decades, it has attracted hikers looking to escape the crowds and immerse themselves in untouched nature. I laced up my hiking boots, gave my backpack one last check, and set off towards the north.
My advices
- Dress using the three-layer system. A good base layer, a warm insulating mid-layer, and a windproof, waterproof outer shell will keep you comfortable whatever the weather brings.
- Choose sturdy, waterproof hiking boots and make sure you’ve broken them in well before the trip. Your feet will thank you.
- Train before you go. A little preparation will make the more challenging hiking days feel much easier.
- Bring a headlamp and a power bank. Most mountain huts have little to no electricity.
- Be prepared for changing weather conditions. The weather in Swedish Lapland can shift quickly.
- Travel with an open mind and embrace the simple comforts. The mountain huts don’t have running water, but that’s exactly what makes The King’s Trail such a unique and unforgettable experience.
Solo or with a group?
I hiked the trail with my partner, two friends, and the rest of the group. But we weren’t glued together all day, and that’s exactly what made the experience so enjoyable. We often spread out, each walking at our own pace, alone with our own thoughts.
The organisation was well thought out. There was always one guide leading the group and another bringing up the rear, while everyone was free to find their own rhythm in between. At every break, we came back together. It gave me the best of both worlds: peaceful moments on my own and a great group to share laughs with in the evenings.
So, if you’re wondering whether to go solo or join a group, The King’s Trail lets you enjoy both.
What I expected before setting off
Honestly? I’m probably not the best person to talk about expectations. I always try to start an adventure like this with an open mind and as few preconceived ideas as possible. That way, I get to be genuinely surprised by whatever comes my way. It works every time.
The only thing I really wondered about was how basic the mountain huts would be. I also thought about how I’d manage my period during the trek because, let’s be honest, it’s one of those practical things that naturally crosses your mind. Other than that, I knew the trail could be challenging. The weather in Swedish Lapland is unpredictable, and some hiking days are long. So I expected tough conditions from time to time, and I never once regretted going in with that mindset.
I’d already completed a few multi-day treks before this one, including Jordan and the Atlas Mountains, while I explored Réunion Island and the Pyrenees on my own. Even so, this experience felt completely different. Swedish Lapland has its own rhythm, its own sense of calm, and a peaceful atmosphere unlike anywhere else I’ve ever been.
How difficult is The King’s Trail, really?
This is probably the question I get asked most often, so here’s the honest answer. Personally, I didn’t find the trek extremely difficult. But there are a few reasons for that.
I had prepared physically, I already had some hiking experience, and the route itself is very well designed. Two of the hiking days were a bit more demanding, and one of them requires a good level of fitness. But because you have the entire day to complete each stage, there’s never any need to rush. You can simply walk at your own pace.
If there’s one thing I can’t emphasise enough, it’s the importance of having the right gear, especially your clothing. I wore the right layering system for every condition, and it made each day so much more enjoyable. One person in our group, on the other hand, brought a heavy winter jacket and unsuitable hiking boots. As a result, they often felt much colder than the rest of us.
Same trail. Same weather. Completely different experience.
So, if you’re packing for The King’s Trail, remember this: your clothing layers aren’t just a small detail. They can make all the difference and completely shape your adventure.
The highlight of my week on The King’s Trail
If you ask me what my favourite moment was, the answer is easy: the snowstorm.
What happened was pretty incredible. The group hiking behind us was supposed to stay in the same mountain hut, but there simply weren’t enough beds for everyone. The solution? We were taken by snowmobile to the next hut… which happened to be one of the most comfortable along the trail.
We spent the entire day there, warm and cosy while the storm raged outside. There was a sauna. And, believe it or not, there was even a bar. We spent hours talking, sharing stories, and watching the snow slowly swallow the landscape through the windows.
That evening, the electricity went out. The hut wardens lit candles throughout the building for dinner, and I honestly can’t describe how magical it felt. The flickering candlelight, the wind pounding against the windows… it felt like time had stopped.
The next morning, we woke up surrounded by snow walls so high it looked as though we’d stepped into a film.
You can’t plan moments like these. They simply happen on The King’s Trail. And that’s exactly why they stay with you forever.
Vast, white, and endless landscapes
With all the snow and low clouds, I didn’t always get to see the full landscape. And yet… or perhaps because of that, it completely took my breath away.
There were days when we walked for hours into what felt like an endless wall of white. It was impossible to tell where the horizon began or ended. That might sound monotonous, but it was anything but. It felt peaceful, almost meditative, with a kind of beauty that’s hard to put into words. As if the world had been put on pause.
Whenever the skies cleared, the surrounding hills and mountains slowly emerged from the mist. What stayed with me most was the sheer scale of it all. Endless open landscapes stretching as far as the eye could see—wild, vast, and almost completely untouched.
Swedish Lapland has a remarkable way of reminding you just how immense nature really is… while making you feel wonderfully small in the best possible way.
Sleeping in the mountain huts
Don’t expect hotel-style comfort—and that’s exactly what makes the experience so special. The mountain huts are simple, but I found them incredibly cosy and welcoming.
Most nights, we slept in shared dormitories with bunk beds. Every hut had a communal kitchen stocked with everything you needed to cook, along with a wood-burning stove and plenty of firewood to keep warm. The toilets were always outside: simple wooden dry toilets, including a separate bin for menstrual products. It’s a small detail, but one that makes a real difference.
Each hut also had board games or a small selection of books to enjoy in the evenings. Some even had a drying room for wet clothes and a sauna, although not all of them did. The sauna also doubled as your shower. You’d heat water on the stove and wash with it. It doesn’t get much more basic than that, but after a full day of hiking, a warm wash felt like pure luxury.
What made those evenings truly special was sharing everything together. Heating the water, lighting the fire, cooking dinner—everyone pitched in. Then we’d spend the evening talking about the day’s adventure by candlelight, laughing over the smallest things, and simply enjoying each other’s company.
Honestly, those moments remain some of my favourite memories of the entire trip.
What stayed with me the most
If I had to sum up this experience in just a few words, it would be the combination of everything I lived through. More than just a trip, it felt like a true expedition.
No phone signal. No running water. No electricity. Just endless snow, and us in the middle of it all—walking, meditating, singing, laughing, and embracing the simplicity of everyday life. That’s the feeling that has stayed with me.
The King’s Trail gave me so much more than breathtaking scenery. It gave me a week where everything was stripped back to the essentials: hiking, staying warm, sharing moments with others, and appreciating what you have.
If you’ve ever wanted to experience just how vast—and at the same time, how incredibly peaceful—the world can be, then now you know exactly where to go.